Showing posts with label Do It Yourself Project. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Do It Yourself Project. Show all posts

Monday, July 25, 2011

Cute & Easy Storage Ideas for your Laundry/Craft Room

I L.O.V.E. spending time in my craft/laundry room! For me it is such a casual, creative space with lots of storage. Here's a few ideas that you may want to incorporate into the laundry or craft room in your new home.


This area of the room is where I do my sewing and crafting. I put up magnetic boards from Ikea where I can showcase my daughter's artwork along with inspirational photos and fun ideas for me. It's so easy to switch out artwork or add a new idea to the board. For the photos, I attached magnetic strips to the back so that the board wouldn't be so cluttered with magnets. You can buy a roll of magnetic "tape" from any craft store.


The wrapping paper station was made from two super cheap (I think about $5) drapery rods from Ikea. I also attached a magnetic bar from Ikea to keep my scissors handy but out of reach of my kids.


This is the newest, and probably my favorite, part of the room. I have gotten back into sewing and enjoy making little skirts or dresses for my daughter along with a few home improvement projects. I used to store all my fabric in bins under the laundry sink, but I got tired of sorting through it all the time. Instead, I was inspired by this blogger to hang my fabric up. The rod is from Ikea (surprised?) and so are the hangers. The whole project cost about $12. I love the convenience and also the color it adds to this space.








These photos show a few more quick storage solutions. I love the fold out clothes rack and iron holder, both from Ikea. The rolling TV stand (Ikea) is perfect for my papers and printers and my daughter loves having her own creative space too.


Finally, anything that's not used often (or isn't very pretty) goes in the cabinets! I hope you've gotten a few ideas for your own home. I'd love to see the storage solutions that you've come up with. Feel free to leave a link in the comments below, or email me at kristi@mcarthurhomes.com.

Monday, July 18, 2011

How To: Stenciling Take 2

When I stenciled our master bedroom wall I swore I would never stencil again (so tedious!) but I saw this amazing stencil online and suddenly had to have it for our powder bathroom. I found the stencil online here.


At first, I tried using the same technique I had used in the master only to discover it did NOT work with this type of stencil. My new stencil was higher quality (thicker) and very detailed so the roller brush would not get paint into the crevices. Then, if I pushed really hard to get the paint in, it bled all around the letters and looked horrible. Here's a pic of my first attempts:


So, I learned how to stencil a new way. Here's what to do if you have a detailed stencil and need perfect results. This is also a great technique when you have a high contrast stencil which shows imperfections much more than the tone on tone stencil I did in my master bedroom. The letters turned out perfectly crisp:



Step One
Use spray adhesive to attach the stencil to the wall. I used a light coat each time I applied the stencil to a new part of the wall. Make sure you put the stencil on top of a drop cloth before you spray it because that adhesive will get everywhere!

Step Two
Use a small bristled brush to apply the paint. They sell special (expensive) stenciling brushes but I got perfect results using plastic brushes from my daughter's art drawer. I think we bought a pack of 20 at Walmart for a couple bucks.
First dip the brush in a bit of paint then get most of the paint off on a paper towel. Make small circular motions with the brush as you work the paint into the stencil. You may need to do more than one coat so wait for the paint to dry (just a couple minutes) before removing the stencil. That way you can see which areas need a bit more paint layered on.



Step Three
Remove the stencil, repsray lightly with adhesive and apply to the next area.


This process really is so easy that my 3 year old was able to help me apply the paint, but it is also time consuming! My tiny 9' by 9' wall took me about 4 hours to paint. Yikes! If you are willing to spend the time, I think that stenciling is an excellent way to personalize and add interest to your new home.


For me, it is totally work it each time I walk down the hallway and peek into the powder room. Have you done any stenciling projects? I'd love to hear about them and see the results! Post a link in the comments or email kristi@mcarthurhomes.com Thanks!

Monday, July 11, 2011

DIY (So Affordable) Drapery Rods

Here's a great trick for getting super affordable drapery hardware for your new home. Simply go to your local Home Depot/Lowes type store and ask for electrical conduit.


For the master bedroom in our new home, I needed a FIFTEEN FOOT drapery rod. Those can be SO expensive! I read online about someone who used 1/2" electrical conduit instead so I decided to try it out. The total cost for the rod was less than $5! The electrical conduit was sold in 10' segments so I bought two and had them cut down into 7' 6" pieces for me at the store. I also purchased a "Set Screw Coupling" which I used to secure the two pieces together.


If you need a rod that is 10' or less in length then you won't need the coupling piece. Just have your conduit cut to the exact size you need and you are done.

To hang my drapery rods I used some left over brackets from an Ikea set. However, you could even make your own brackets using a few other items from the hardware store. Check that out here.



Here are a few ways you could dress up these drapery rods:
  • Attach cabinet hardware or door knobs to each end as finials
  • Paint the conduit with Rustoleum Spray Paint to match your decor (white, black, navy etc.)
  • Use copper plumbing pipe instead (more expensive but beautiful)
  • Choose a wider size such as 2" conduit for a heavier look
I will use this technique again in my dining room, but I think I'll try adding finials and spray painting the whole thing a dark navy. (I am kind of obsessed with navy right now. Anyone else loving it too?)

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

DIY Upholstered Headboard Inspired by the Parade of Homes

I am so excited about how this project turned out! I have been wanting a headboard for my master bedroom ever since we moved into our new home in Lehi but I didn't want to spend $500-2,000 for a new headboard. There are tons of great tutorials online on how to make your own, so finally I decided to take a chance and try it. I am happy to say that I love my new headboard AND it only cost about $75.

Here's the inspiration headboard. 

(You may recognize it from the McArthur Homes house that I showcased from the 2011 Utah Valley Parade of Homes. I love the nailhead trim and the clean, simple lines.)


Here is my version.


And here's how I did it.

I mostly followed this fabulous tutorial from Isabella and Max Rooms but with a few changes. The biggest change was that I downsized the headboard quite a bit because I still wanted to show off all that stenciling work I did in the master! I also changed the way I mounted the headboard to the wall. (See Step Six.)

Materials:
1/4" sheet of plywood
3- 2x4s
LOTS (about 400 pieces) of nailhead trim that I bought online here.
3 yards batting
3 yards home decor or other wide width fabric
2 large pieces of 3" high density foam from JoAnns or Hobby Lobby (use coupons!)
scrap piece of mdf or other sturdy wood

Step One
Create the frame for your headborad by cutting down the length of the plywood sheet to fit the length of your bed. I made mine for my (future) king size bed so I needed 80" width. Then cut down the 2x4s and screw onto the plywood to create a border.


Step Two
Cut down your foam to fill the space between the 2x4s. I like to use an electric carving knife to cut foam. You can use spray adhesive to attach the foam if you'd like. Mine is held in place by the batting and fabric.



Step Three
Lay batting and fabric over the top of the frame. Have a friend/hubby help you make sure the fabric is straight. The fabric can be the biggest expense of this project, but I actually found mine for only $6/yard in the remnants section of JoAnns home decor fabric. It was the perfect gray color with a slight hounds tooth texture. LOVE it!


Step Four
Starting at the top center of the headboard, attach the nailhead trim by hammering it in along the edge of the 2x4. I would suggest using a nailhead trim spacer, which you can find online. I was impatient  and did mine freehand so there are some imperfections. This is the hardest and most tedious part of the process. Luckily, my husband helped some so things went a little faster. Make sure your fabric is pulled tight as you go and that it is straight.


Once the top of the headboard was done, I pulled my fabric tight and stapled it to the bottom. This helped keep things nice and tight as I continued down the sides.


Another thing I learned about nailhead trim is that it can be difficult to hammer into the wood where there are knots or other imperfections. I bent MANY nailheads trying to force them in. After awhile I figured out that I could get a nice hole started by hammering in a small nail first, then removing the nail and hammering in the nailhead trim piece. I only did this in difficult areas, but it really helped!




Step Five
After all the trim was installed I simply stapled the fabric and batting to the back of the headboard, pulling tightly. At the corners, I made a small fold, which is hardly noticeable at all.



Step Six
To install the headboard you could add legs and attach it to your bedframe, but I wanted mine mounted on the wall. The tutorial I followed suggested gluing the headboard to the wall, but I wanted mine to be removal so that if (when) I want to change up the decor I won't have to rip a hole in the drywall to remove the headboard. An EASY way to do this is by cutting a 45 degree angle into two pieces of wood. Screw one to the headboard and one to the studs in the wall, as shown. Then just lift your headboard up onto the wall so that the wood pieces fit into each other. It only took a few minutes and it is sturdy as can be! (Thanks to my friend, Roger for cutting the angles for me. I still don't have a table saw...)



That's it! If you have any questions or comments please feel free to leave them in the notes and I'll respond as best I can. Good luck!

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

How To: Stenciled Wall Treatment

Stenciling is an inexpensive and easy (although not necessarily quick) way to add a fun design element to your new home. With stencils you can create a custom "wallpaper" look using any colors of your choice and for a fraction of the cost of real designer wallpaper. Here are some easy tips I learned while trying out this project over Memorial Day Weekend.
  • Choose a matte or eggshell finish for your base coat. These finishes absorb the second layer of paint better, reducing smears and making the project move along faster. My base coast is Piper by KWAL Paint in an eggshell finish.
  •  You can be more creative with your top coat (the one you use when stenciling). I chose a Metallic Masters paint called Smoke. I love that the sheen looks different when viewed from different angles and in different light. It looks especially AMAZING in the evening and morning. It also dried surprisingly quickly.
  • If you want a "wallpaper" look, make sure you choose a stencil that is designed for that type of use. They come with registration marks: little triangle holes in the corners so that you can make marks and line up each subsequent stencil. I picked mine up at the local craft store but you can find hundreds of options online too. I chose a damask-look for my stencil. I tried to find one that wasn't too girly since this room is for my husband too. (I think the dark grey colors also made it appear a little more masculine.)
  • The instructions say to start in the top left corner of your room. However, this was my very first time stenciling so I started somewhere less visible (the area of the room that is covered up by my bed and future headboard). 
  • Make sure that your first stencil is perfectly level. All your other stencils will be based on this, so go for perfectly level. When I was starting I checked the level on each subsequent stencil, but realized that as long as I line up my registration marks, this was really unnecessary. 
  • In order to avoid smudging the design, I worked in a random pattern, not a straight line. I didn't want to tape right over the area that I had just painted, but I also didn't want to wait several minutes between each stencil. This worked fine as long as I remember to mark the registration points and line them up with each new stencil.
And my two biggest tips for stenciling a wall...
  1. Accept that your stenciling will NOT BE PERFECT but that it will still look AMAZING. There were plenty of times when my stencils didn't line up exactly or I had to fudge around the edges. However, the overall wall still looks perfectly amazing. With all that's going on, you really can't tell where the mistakes are, so don't sweat it!
  2. Expect to spend A LOT OF TIME on this project. I did a fairly large, vaulted wall and I planned on spending several hours on this project. Unfortunately I was way off base. My small pattern and large wall added up to a total of about 8 hours just doing the stencil (not counting the base coat, clean up etc). About 3/4 of the way through I really did just want to quit and leave it half done. Luckily I stuck with it and now LOVE the results (and you will too if you try it for yourself!)
Here's my completed wall. My total cost was under $40! The overall design of the room is still only about half way done. My next big project is a large upholstered headboard. If that goes well I'll post it here in a few weeks! Then I'll be searching for new nightstands and wall sconces.

So happy stenciling. And to any of you stenciling pros out there... I'd love to hear your tips and tricks or see your work! Email me at kristi@mcarthurhomes.com

Monday, April 25, 2011

Make a Monogram Wreath for Less Than $15

I was inspired by Miss Mustard Seed's post on HGTV where she created a fun spring time monogram. It was such a cute, fun addition to her spring decor. I decided to take the idea one step further and create a giant monogram "wreath" to go on the front door of my new home in Utah.

It is difficult to find a large, affordable letter for this project, so I used a 12" x 36" piece of Styrofoam. Lucky for me, Hobby Lobby is currently running a 50% off sale on Styrofoam and moss! (Check with your local Hobby Lobby, but I think this deal is still going on. If not, you can always go to any craft store and use their weekly 40% off coupons.) The foam cost $6 and three bags of moss cost $7.50 each for a grand total of $13.50. I also used some ribbon that I already had, but you could buy 1/4 yard of any ribbon.


To make my letter, I cut the foam in half, temporarily taped it together and sketched out a large letter A. After many different attempts, I found that a plain old paring knife worked best to cut out the letter. If you have a special foam-cutting tool use that, if not don't spend the money when a knife works just fine. Warning- cutting Styrofoam makes quite a mess, as does gluing on the moss. Make sure you do this in your craft room or even out in the garage.

Once I had the letter cut out, I attached the pieces to each other using toothpicks and a glue gun. Then I began putting hot glue on a 3"x3" area and carefully pressing the moss into the glue. I worked all the way around my letter. At first, I was super skeptical. My lovely wreath looked like a sad piece of Stryofoam with random pieces of moss stuck to it. I was beginning to think this project was one of those things that seems good in theory, or on someone else's blog, but doesn't work in real life.

Happily. the monogrammed wreath turned out great! I love how fresh and simple it looks. Plus, I love that no one else has a wreath just like this.


Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Lawn Tips- Is Your Lawn Water Wise

Local Utah landscaping expert, Chris Jensen shared his tips for keeping your new home's lawn looking beautiful. Thanks Chris for sharing your expertise with our homeowners!

Lawn Tips- Is Your Lawn Water Wise?
 
Don’t Kill it with Kindness
During the heat of the summer, your lawn only needs to be watered about twice a week.
Water in cycles
By dividing your watering time into three shorter cycles with time in between, water has more time to penetrate the soil and reach the root zone. This means run-off is minimized and more water gets to the roots.
Mow high-3"+
When grass is allowed to grow higher, roots have a chance to grow deeper. Deep roots help your lawn withstand changes in temperatures, even the extremes. Deep roots also need less water. Mowing high also means you get to mow less often.
Recycle your Grass
Leave grass clipping on the lawn to provide nutrients and to keep the soil cool. It also helps in reducing waste at the landfill.
 
Let the air in
Roots need air, too. Aerating your lawn helps compacted soils loosen up, and increases the
transfer of air into the soil so roots can breathe deep. 
 
Go on a less-lawn diet
If the only time you’re on the lawn is when you mow it, think of replacing part of the lawn with
low-water, low-maintenance ground covers, or even a patio or deck with a raised fire pit.
 




Monthly Watering Schedule
Start-up until April 30 Once every 7-10 days
May Once every 4-7 days
June, July, August Once every 2-4 days
September Once every 7-10 days
October to shutdown Once every 7-14 days
You may need to water less or more depending on the weather.
If it rains or is windy, remember to turn off your automatic system or add a rain clicker to turn off the system automatically.
 
 
 
All photos are of projects by Chris Jensen Landscaping

Monday, April 4, 2011

Spruce Up Your Home for Spring

I don't know about you, but spring cleaning is in full swing at my house. I've been hard at work indoors while my husband has been fixing up the yard for spring. (It seems I may have gotten the short end of the stick, cleaning indoors with all the beautiful weather we've had!) I love the feeling of everything in the house looking fresh and new. Here are some "to do" items for spring to help you get started on your own home. Is there anything else you like to do to get ready for spring? Leave a comment with your ideas!

Indoor Cleaning Projects:
  • Wash windows and repair screens
  • Vacuum dusty drapes and window treatments (You can send really dirty drapes to the cleaners!)
  • Defrost the freezer and dust refrigerator coils
  • Remove grime and grease buildup on the kitchen exhaust fan
  • Clean out the basement, giving away or discarding any unwanted items or clothing (My pile has made it to the garage, but I still need to take my donations to DI and discard anything unusable.)
  • Shampoo carpets and rugs
  • Steam clean upholstery
  • Dust corners and ceilings
  • Wash baseboards, doorjambs, windowsils doors and walls
  • Wipe ceiling fans
  • Clean oven
  • Wipe refrigerator clean
  • Clean out office files

Indoor Maintenance Items
  • Check Air Conditioning Unit
  • Inspect caulking around tubs, showers and sinks
  • Reseal grout on tile floors
  • Test GFCI outlets (Press the "Test" button, which should trip the outlet. Then press the "Reset" button to restore the connection."
  • Tighten garbage disposal drain, connections and fasteners
  • Change furnace filters
  • Change batteries in carbon monoxide and smoke detectors
  • Lubricate door hings and hardware
  • Update first-aid and emergency kits
  • Replace leaky faucet washers
  • Replace incandescent bulbs with energy-saving lighting

Outdoor Cleaning Tasks
  • Clean and de-clutter your garage
  • Wash outdoor furniture
  • Clean your grill and check for dead insects clogging the gas line
  • Pressure-wash decks
  • Scrub porch ceilings and walls
  • Clean umbrellas and awnings
  • Clean light fixture covers

Outdoor Maintenance Must-Dos
  • Inspect and repair or replace damaged roof shingles
  • Inspect and reseal roof flashing if necessary
  • Pressure-wash driveway and walkway
  • Clean and inspect gutters and downspouts
  • Check the oil and air filter on your lawn mower
  • Trim branches and shrubs that touch your home (They provide a pathway for bugs or excess moisture to enter your home.)
  • Check ironwork for rust spots
  • Reseal deck
  • Seal drafty doors and windows

Phew! That's quite a list (and a lot of work!). You can find more information on many of these and other home maintenance items in McArthur Homes' new home guide. The best part about spring cleaning is that if you get it all done now, you can relax and enjoy the warm summer weather that is on its way! Happy cleaning!

Monday, January 31, 2011

Dress up the Bathroom

When building my new home, I purposely stuck with neutral colors in my paint, cabinetry, countertops, flooring etc. I did this so that I could later add color through furniture, accessories and accent paint. When I feel like changing things up, I can easily switch out a few items instead of needing to demo my whole bathroom.

I have finally gotten started on adding some color and interest to the kids' bathroom. This is going to be a long process, so today I'm posting on how to dress up your towels. Look for future posts on adding beadboard and a fun art project!

I purchased very plain hand towels at Target for about $4/each. I know, I could possibly have gotten them for less if I'd shopped stores like TJ Maxx, Ross, etc. but I was in a hurry and these were the perfect color to go with the shower curtain.

After I got the shower curtain and towels home I was found leftover ribbon in my craft room that matched the dark blue color of the shower curtain perfectly. I cut a length of ribbon that was slightly longer than my towel. Measuring as I went, I pinned the ribbon in place about 3" from the bottom of the towel. Then I tucked the ends around the edge of the towel and pinned those too.

I sewed along the edge of the ribbon with a straight stitch. You could also use a decorative stitch in a contrasting thread, especially if you choose a plain ribbon.


Ta da! The finished towel ties in nicely with the design scheme and cost a fraction of a fancy designer towel.












Here's one more idea for dressing up your towels. This is from our McArthur Homes model home in Herriman. I love how simple and elegant the flowers look.

Obviously, this isn't practical if you use the towels on your towel rack, which my kids do. I think this is perfect for a guest bathroom though. I love to have a stack of fresh white towels ready for guests, while still keeping the decorative towels hanging in the bathroom. Imagine how impressive this would be if you used fresh flowers for special guests!

What have you seen or done to dress up your bathroom decor? I'd love to hear your suggestions!

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Quick & Easy Ways to Personalize Your Child's Room

Children's rooms are the perfect place to take design risks. Use bright colors. Try something creative! Whether you're jumping in with a fresh start in your new home, or just want to add some pizazz to what you already have, here are 3 easy projects that will help you personalize your child's room:

Art Gallery
You can create a custom art gallery wall for your child's room at almost no cost.

I started with some frames I had in the basement. You could find inexpensive frames at garage sales or thrift stores. Remove the glass, then paint them all the same color for a cohesive look.

Next use scrapbook paper or plain colored card stock to fill the frames.  Choose colors to coordinate with your overall decorating scheme.

Attach clips to the top of the frames using a hot glue gun. You can use either bulldog clips or binder clips.

Hang the frames and display your child's favorite art projects. Rotate the art regularly to keep the look fresh and show your child how much you love their creative art projects!

Personalized Wall
Create this bold, personalized wall display with just a few tools. For my letters, I used left over bead board. You could also use 1/4" plywood.

First trace the letters of your child's name onto the beadboard or plywood. Then use a jigsaw to cut the letters. Don't worry about being perfect. Sand out any rough spots then paint to match your child's room.

To create a 3D look, I cut 3/4" pieces off an extra 2X4 and painted them the color of the wall. I nailed those to the wall, then nailed my letters to the 2X4 pieces. This made the letters "pop" off the wall.

Dress Up Station
My daughter loves to dress up, so I created a special dress up area in her room. It was so easy!

Just buy the brushed nickel hooks from 3M, they stick to the wall and then pull away easily. Place several hooks on a wall at child's height. I actually attached them to my daughter's bed to create this little niche.

The final touch is a child sized mirror leaned up against the wall. You can get them cheap if you look for discounts or garage sales. Remember, almost any mirror can become a beautiful, unique statement piece by painting the frame.

Sunday, December 26, 2010

2010 Home Design Trends

Here's a quick video on some trends we've seen this year in home decor. Use these tips and tricks to decorate your new home. Happy Decorating!

Friday, July 16, 2010

Do It Yourself Firepit & Flagstone Patio

Here's a fun summer project that can improve the value of your home by adding more entertaining space in your backyard. The project took my husband and I one long weekend plus a few evenings. The cost is relatively minimal if you take the time to find a good deal on flagstone. We got ours on ksl.com for a fraction of the price that it would have cost us at a stone distributor.



Supplies:
  • Firepit Kit from Lehi Block Company- This includes the stones for the firepit and also the metal ring. You can choose one with or without grates for barbecuing. www.lehiblock.com  
  • Flagstone or pavers for the patio area- We used about a 1-1/2 tons of 2" thick flagstone to cover our 10X12 area.
  • Concrete sand- We used about 3/4 of a cubic yard. You can purchase this by the bag at Home Depot/Lowes etc. or get it loose from Lehi Block or similar companies. 
  • 2X4 for leveling sand
  • Shovel
  • Wheelbarrow for hauling dirt in and out 
  • Level
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Masonry Adhesive (We used Liquid Nails brand from Home Depot)

Step One
Check with your city and neighborhood regulations to be sure firepits are allowed. Many cities have requirements that dictate how far your firepit must be from your home or other buildings.

Step Two
Clear the area where you will build your firepit and patio. Then dig the entire area down at least 3-4". You will need to dig deeper if your flagstone is very thick or if you are using thick pavers for the patio surrounding the firepit.

Step Three
Use your firepit ring to determine exactly where the firepit will be located. Be sure to allow space for people to sit and gather around the fire without sitting too close to the flames. Fill the area in and around the ring with 1-2" of concrete sand. Use the 2X4 to compact, smooth and level the sand.



Step Four
Place the first stone against the ring and use a rubber mallet to pound the stone tightly into the sand. Make sure the stone is level in every direction. You will probably have to add or remove little bits of sand. It helps to wet the sand slightly with a watering can or hose. -You can see my husband's cute pink watering can in the background of this picture. :)

Step Five
Continue setting stones around the firepit to create the first layer of stone. Make sure each stone is level to the next and not tilted in any direction. Spending extra time on this first row of stones will ensure that the next layers go smoothly. It took us about 3 hours just to create this first layer of stone, but the next 3 layers took only 20 minutes total.


Step Six
Once your first layer of stone is complete you can remove the fire ring and continue adding layers of stone until your firepit is the desired height. Make sure to offset the stones so that the seems do not line up. Use masonry adhesive to bond the top 3 layers to each other. Adhesive is not necessary on the lower levels as the weight of the stones will hold everything in place. Check to make sure each layer is level as you continue.


Step Seven
When all layers are complete, reinsert the metal fire ring and fill your firepit with sand and/or gravel to 1-2" above the bottom of the ring.

Step Eight
If you will be laying flagstone, first spread out and level more concrete sand. Next lay out your flagstone in the pattern you would like. Take the time to arrange the stones tightly, like a puzzle. Set each stone using a rubber mallet and level, adding or removing sand as needed. When all stones are set, fill the gaps with more sand or use fill dirt if you will be planting moss in the cracks of the patio. Click here for more detailed instructions on building a flagstone patio from American Stone.


Finally, invite over your friends and family and enjoy!